#SuzyPFW Dries Van Noten: Keeping It In The Family
With new financial support from Puig, the Spanish fashion and fragrance house, the designer created an elevated version of his harmonious melds of vivid colour and womanly good sense
The Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2019 collection featured upbeat patterns and joyful colours
A vivid yellow poured over the feathery tops, splodged on Modernist skirts, and edged up to a sky-blue pattern with pink flowers at the Dries Van Noten show.
And why wouldn’t the designer send out a sunshine collection after a business deal in June this year that gave one of fashion’s last few independents the security of backing by the Spanish fragrance giant?
Monochrome stripes mixed with vibrant pattern and intense colour at Dries Van Noten for Spring/Summer 2019
“But the big news is that nothing, nothing is changing,” Dries reassured me. ”We are really happy – we share the same values. For me it is the perfect match.”
Maybe from this spirit came the light but simple clothes for Spring/Summer 2019 – “grown up” outfits for real lives, dashed with a flurry of feathers and those cheery tones.
Relaxed silhouettes and easy-to-wear knee- and mid-length skirts at Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2019
The designer described as “couture structures and gestures” clothes that could best be called “womanly”, but not in a pejorative way. Rather, that defined a rare style with a relaxed cut to the trousers and decent skirts just over the knee, yet with many imaginative interjections: inky blobs of colour; splashes of the lemon yellow; abstract images of black on white. Nothing was too close to the body, yet there was a more sophisticated cut.
Bursts of yellow and feathery flourishes appeared throughout the Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2019 collection
My eyes were drawn to details: classic high-heeled shoes with vivid stripes; feathery bags and bodices; a shoulder cover, lacy and fringed like a mini cape.
Dries Van Noten's detailing and accessories featured innovative textures and fabric treatments
The designer has come a long way since he started more than three decades ago in 1986 as part of the original “Antwerp Six” collective. How hard it is to carry on, especially as an independent designer.
Backstage at Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2019. Modernist feathered effects featured on accessories, shoes (back right) and dresses
Dries summed up his new situation with Puig. “It’s a family company, and it feels good,” he said. “What is especially very nice for me, is that my company has a future – because if you are independent, you can say whatever you want, but at a certain moment you have to go. Now we have the bones, the possibility of making a good structure to continue. Who knows whenever I’m going to stop?”